JOBS in the food service industry are renowned for being intense and testing but also equally exciting, therefore, having worked as a chef for 15 years West Belfast man Liam Mooney’s journey in the culinary world has undoubtedly been an interesting one. In April, he took up the head chef post at the Malone Lodge Hotel, where he had previously worked as a Senior Sous Chef before a seven-year spell working abroad. Although his new role may be viewed as a veritable homecoming, it could well be his most exciting challenge yet.
Liam first started his career in the industry working as a waiter in the Europa Hotel – a summer job that would soon see him step behind the line in the kitchen. Reflecting on those early days, the Clonard man said: “The passion of the chefs had for food, the flavours and the way they were plating stuff up really inspired me. It was good to see that buzz in the kitchen.
“Yes, it is a stressful environment, but the guys all have fun. They all work towards one goal and they’re all one big family. It doesn’t matter what kitchen you go into, they’re all family – if one person goes down they all go down, which just shows the teamwork. When I first watched the guys in the Europa it just bit me and I wanted to be a chef after that.”
Liam’s flair for cooking and his desire to learn inspired him to gain chef’s qualifications, and garnered further opportunities including the chance to work at the inimitable James Street South.
He later went to work at the Malone Lodge Hotel, where his skills brought critical acclaim; in 2011 he became one of six finalists in prestigious European Chef of the Year Awards. Liam was the only chef in the finals from a non-Michelin starred restaurant and eventually picked up a bronze award for his five-course menu that showcased the best local and seasonal produce. His passion for seasonality and high-quality produce is something that has stuck with him to this day.
“I like to stick to the classics,” he explained.
“Classics are classics for a reason. Sometimes I’ll twist it as best as I can, but I always try to keep the flavours clean and seasonal. It’s basically just good food that everybody can enjoy. It doesn’t matter what your dietary requirement, we can cater for it.
“We’ll always try to make a dish that is gluten free or dairy free so that we don’t have to tell people they can’t have it. We’ll twist a classic dish to more clean or refined flavours so that everybody can enjoy it.”
When Liam left Belfast for Guernsey seven years ago he felt it may well have been for good. His move brought success, of course – he headed the team at Guernsey’s most popular restaurant, the Slaughterhouse – however, when the Malone Lodge offered him a new opportunity it was a challenge he could not pass up, and one he is meeting with his typical enthusiasm for food.
“I’ve been bringing seasonality back into the restaurant. I’ve been making Macklin’s Bar back into a bar where people can come for a few pints and have chicken, ribs – bringing back real pub grub,” he said.
“We’re making sure the lobby is buzzing again with people enjoying scones, teas, coffees and paninis – just having a bit to eat and drink and relaxing.
“We’re bringing the restaurant back to what it was; a nice hotel restaurant that is there for families, kids, and everybody so that they can have a nice sit down meal. It’s not just for customers who are staying in the hotel – it’s for the people of the area, people from all over Belfast, or people just visiting.”
He continued: “The response has been very very good. I’ve come in at a crazy time with tour groups coming in, we’ve had holy communions coming in, but the feedback has all been positive. People like what they see happening and what they’re getting, and they like that they are getting good value for money.”
Although Liam felt he might live in his home city again, he insists his return was the right move. With Belfast’s ever growing food culture and tourism industry, it could not have come at a better time.
“Belfast has always been a booming city – it’s basically like a mini London,” he said.
“It is always evolving and the food is always evolving. We have some amazing chefs. You have people like Stevie Tolman, who is a Michelin starred chef at OX – I worked with him in James Street South – I think it’s amazing what he does. Every chef bouncing off each other is the whole point of it.
“I think it’s brilliant for Belfast’s tourism and the city as a whole. We’re able to show how we’re moving forward to a better place. You can actually go out now and enjoy a nice meal. When I was younger you maybe went out for your communion and you were lucky if you got a steak. People are now trying different things, they’re experimenting with food, and they are opening their minds to the different things you can eat. There are a lot of Asian restaurants and a lot of other multicultural restaurants in Belfast, which brings a lot of passion and a lot of enjoyment for everybody.”
He continued: “I’m happy that I’ve been asked to come back and take over the kitchen. It brings a lot of pride because I was here when it was the old restaurant and then I was here when it got done up.
“It’s good to be able to show these guys in the kitchen where hard work gets you and what we can do together. I want to give a bit of guidance and teach them things that I’ve learned and the stuff that I’m still learning. I’ve been away for seven years, but I’m proud to be back. I would have come back maybe once a year, but I’ve always missed Belfast and I’ve always been a West Belfast boy, so I’m glad I got the opportunity.”